Archive for October, 2009

Warning: Bacon May Be Harmful to Your Logic

October 30th, 2009

My basic philosophy about being an eco-friendly consumer: most of the time, the greenest thing you can do is not buy anything. I stand by that. If you junk your perfectly viable car to get a Prius, which takes a lot of energy to make, you might feel better in the Whole Foods parking lot but the only cause you’re helping is the thriving green-washing industry that wants to give you smugness for dollars.

But not all choices fall into the category of “to buy or not to buy.” Some are more like “to buy these boots or those boots.” So I was excited when last night’s launch party for sustainable style website Ecouterre introduced me to Kaight — a Lower East Side eco-friendly boutique featuring some familiar labels (Linda Loudermilk, Matt and Nat) and some new finds (dreamandawake). I wanted to shop! I wanted to mingle! I had to go to “Heaven”! In the words of California’s dubious patron saint of the environment: “I’ll be back.” (Although The Terminator never added “… to try on those really cool slim fit organic cotton pants,” I always felt it was implicit in his tone.)

Alemos bootie by Coclico

Alemos bootie by Coclico

Discovery of the night was these boots (made in gray exclusively for Kaight) and the brand, Coclico. Yes, they’re leather — tanned with vegetable dyes. Read about the company’s sustainability aims here.

I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about the leather thing recently. I wear leather shoes, jackets, belts, reasoning that it is a by product of the meat industry which, though I don’t contribute to it, is a very real fact. I wish there weren’t a giant mountain of dead cow skins, but since they’re there, shouldn’t we do something with them? Or is that lame, because by wearing leather I am just perpetuating the idea that it’s fine to slaughter animals to satisfy a whim? There’s the animals rights issue, and then there’s the environmental question. From the point-of-view of sustainability, isn’t it less wasteful of energy to use those hides for shoes and clothing that to manufacture those things from scratch? So many mind-boggling calculations, and before you know it you are living in a cave wearing shoes made of newspaper and banana skins.

And if you’re a vegetarian, you’re probably yawningly familiar with the old “you wear leather, don’t you?” chestnut (the spoken or unspoken follow-up being “you are therefore a giant hypocrite, so stop silently judging me and come chow down on this steak”). Why some meat eaters think it’s necessary or socially acceptable for them to call us vegetarians on our choices and stick them under their blurry (lard-smeared?) moral microscopes, I have no idea. If by “hypocrite” they mean “imperfect,” guilty as charged. But it’s illogical to suggest that a vegetarian who wears leather might as well be a full on meat eater. If I were a self-righteously evangelical veggie who flinched at the sight of a lamb chop and made barfing motions in the presence of bacon, I’d understand the need to niggle. I’m not and I don’t. But I sometimes think that switching to all vegan footwear and belts would at least save me from having the same discussion five thousand times. So I’ve been considering it, and I’ve been looking at vegan shoes, and it’s even harder than I thought to get anything aesthetically pleasing in between plastic sandals and Stella McCartney (neither of which is an option right now). Most of what’s out there and affordable is pretty uninspiring, as previously noted. Maybe sustainably produced vegetable-dyed leather is a good enough solution for now — or at least, for the next time I really need a new pair of shoes. I know it won’t keep the meat eaters quiet. I carry a ham sandwich in my pocket for that.

Camel Coats in Vogue This Season

October 29th, 2009
freedom_07-08.1221396480.big-head-mode

Vogue Editor Anna Wintour

Camel

Camel

Reading The Cut this morning, I couldn’t help but be struck by the Vogue editor’s resemblance to a dromedary, or an even-toed ungulate if you will. Or even if you won’t.

I was also tickled to read the other day that former NY Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni Twittered thus about A-dubs’ eating habits:

Anna Wintour comes to Marea, orders chicken, with avocado salad, neither on menu. What’s the point?”

What, indeed? And since when do even-toed ungulates eat chicken?

Viva Alondra!

October 24th, 2009

AlondradelaParra1web

I’m hungry for heroines: inspiring, dynamic, kick-ass, glass-ceiling-busting women doing cool things. And one of my latest obsessions is Alondra de la Parra, founder and conductor of the Philharmonic Orchestra of the Americas. She’s 28 years old, grew up in Mexico City, and started the orchestra five years ago while studying at the Manhattan School of Music. Her mission: to bring the music of the Americas to audiences while providing an opportunity for young musicians to kick off their orchestral careers. That’s right: at an age when most of us were still racking up student loans, spending them on cheap alcohol, and lurching about drunkenly to Britney Spears’ “Oops … I Did It Again,” she founded an orchestra. And her musical talent seems to be matched by her flair for fundraising, because now that orchestra is going strong, and at the two gala concerts I attended the audience was a veritable parade of well-heeled, flamboyantly-dressed Latin American glitterati.

As for Ms. de la Parra, she is gorgeously glam, but getting dressed must be a challenge for the female conductor. For one thing, the audience is getting the rear view. You want to look elegant; you don’t want an entire concert hall staring at your derriere. You also need a lot of freedom of movement. I think there’s a wonderful opportunity here for a smart female designer (Isabel Toledo? Carolina Herrera? Stella McCartney?) to create some custom-made conducting outfits for Ms. de la Parra. Admittedly, there’s not a huge market for women’s conducting garb right now, but thanks to A. d. l. P., that might be about to change.

The POA’s repertoire is populist and accessible; it’s also inclusive of composers and musical styles that the canon of orchestral music traditionally ignores. RIP DWEMs (Dead While European Males). Viva Alondra and the POA!

Betsey Johnson on the Box!

October 15th, 2009

Betsey Johnson Spring 2010

I adore Betsey Johnson about as much as I abhor QVC and the TV-shopping-verse in general. Which is why my tiny mind is boggled by the news that Bets may partner up with said network for a diffusion line. 

The eccentric designer picked up a Lifetime Achievement Award in Fashion from the National Arts Club last night and she told New York Magazine’s The Cut that she has her eye on a TV shopping slot. Among her reasons for gravitating to QVC: “My dentist is a big QVC-er.” 

I know Rachel Zoe is already on the network, and her line looks OK if you like that kind of faux fur and bling-bling thing. But RZ doesn’t have a fraction of Betsey’s design chops; she embraces a trashy aesthetic, whereas BJ flirts with it then turns it into something more: playful, flattering fashion. How I wish I’d been at her Spring 2010 presentation in the Palm Court at the Plaza Hotel (where she is redesigning Eloise’s suite). 

Betsey also cheerfully revealed that she is the kind of Luddite only the very rich and successful and well-staffed can afford to be. “I can’t deal with those electrics,” she said, apparently referring to the internet, computers in general, and even the telephone. Luckily, helpers like “Theresa the Twitterer” ensure she maintains a semblance of modernity. 

Well, if the unholy alliance of Betsey and QVC happens, you can bet I’ll be all over that sh*t like pink tartan on black tulle.

Visual Inventory of the Damage

October 13th, 2009
bootsandcoat

Coat: Jil Sander +J for Uniqlo. Boots: Via Spiga

 

Skills that enable The Brow  to take decent photo of self: 0

Accidental homages to Bridget Jones/Helen Fielding in last post: several

A Brief Inventory of the Damage

October 12th, 2009

The Brow has been bad. The Brow has been busy. The Brow promises to try to do better. Do, or do not. There is no try. There is no brow. Only I.  

 It’s been a fashion-filled few days. I finally made it to Uniqlo in SoHo to check out Jil Sander’s diffusion line, +J. I love Jil Sander’s classic, minimalist designs but am galaxies away from being able to buy her ready-to-wear pieces. I’ve never had much of an impression of Uniqlo, except that it seemed like the Japanese Old Navy. I looked at the +J range online and liked what a I saw: a simple blazer, classic wool coats, a yummy aubergine trench. When I made it to the SoHo store, I wasn’t sure if most of the line would have sold out already, as happened with Comme des Garcons at H&M or Anna Sui for Target.  But with the exception of the blazer, there was plenty of everything I was looking for, and more. The coats looked great on the hanger, and the wool felt better than I expected for the price ($149), but I found the sizing weird. Sizes run from extra small to large (no extra large in either women’s or men’s). The small was on the big side on me, which is always mildly pleasing but really didn’t seem right as I’m tall and have broad shoulders. I wonder if teeny women are finding that even the extra small is too big?

 The wool overcoats didn’t sit well on me — too high in the waist — maybe because of the imprecise sizing. The one that worked was a belted wool trench, which I quickly snaffled in charcoal. The aubergine trench called my name, but it was so light, I wondered whether it would really be that useful and decided against buying it. Having said that, a season of warm, wet days is sure to follow wherever I am. I also picked up a basic but cozy cashmere cardie with a touch of elastane for stretchability.

 I’m pleased with my purchases (not least because it is suddenly cold enough here for brass monkeys to fear for their balls), but I did speak to one designer who wishes to remain nameless who said he found the collection disappointing. In his view, one of the essential features of Jil Sander’s clothes is the use of the highest-quality fabrics, and it just wasn’t possible to translate that to Uniqlo prices. He quoted a fashion luminary (unfortunately he couldn’t remember who, and Google failed to put out. If anyone else has the answer, please let me know!) who said that there are three key qualities in clothes: fit, fabric, and fashion. A garment needs to have two out of three to be good, and anything that scores three out of three will be a runaway (and runway) success. Sander’s style eschews trends, but what she misses in fashion she more than compensates for in fit and fabric. But is it fair to expect the finest wool for $149? It is not.

 In more shopping news: The Brow’s friend and partner-in-shopping, The Corporate Fashionista, was in town. Here is a brief inventory of the damage:

Shops visited: too many to count

Boots bought: four

Rude Bobbi Brown sales assistants encountered: one

Bloggers dissuaded from buying unnecessary lip gloss: one

Caipirinhas consumed: two

Pao de queijo consumed: see under shops visited

Blocks walked to counteract above: 200 +

 

We are now in recovery. Stay tuned for pics.

For the Vegan Dominatrix

October 5th, 2009

The Guardian has an interview with Stella McCartney, in which she rails against ham and the anal electrocution of foxes. As well one might. But McCartney insists that she is a fashion designer, not an environmentalist, and the simple, covetable elegance of her designs bears this out.

48898_in_l

because vegetarian doesn't have to mean boring

My (usually) long-distance personal shopper and revered style consultant, The Corporate Fashionista, and I were browsing in Matches in Marylebone High Street when we saw these boots in the not-flesh. In the PVC or whatever miracle fabric McCartney uses, because we couldn’t get over how wonderful they felt. Soft and buttery and exceptionally leather-like. Not that either TCF or I would ever wear them. Ever ever. But I will be recommending them to all my vegan dominatrix friends, and so should you.

If Stella McCartney shoes weren’t so expensive, giving up leather would be a no-brainer for this veggie fashionista. As it is, I’m torn. I know I’m not going to throw out the leather I already own — that would be a waste. But right now I’m looking for ankle boots. Can I find an affordable vegan pair that doesn’t basically wave a giant “look Ma, no hide” flag at the expense of all aesthetic value?

Guess the Brows

October 1st, 2009

 

Whose brows are these?

Whose brows are these?

Which divine British brunette is the owner of these deliciously full brows? Do they look good enough to eat … or like they should be framed and sold for a ridiculous sum at an art auction? OK, enough clues for you.

Figured it out? Hear the brows’ owner here until Sunday.